By Dr. oec. Liga Brunina | Biochemist, Clean Beauty Formulator, Founder of LABRAINS

Many still confuse pharmaceutical safety with cosmetic suitability, assuming that if an ingredient is approved for drug delivery, it must be safe for daily skincare. This misconception often harms sensitive or acne-prone skin.

The issue lies not in actives but in solvents and enhancers like propylene glycol, ethanol, PEGs, and acrylates—used in pharmacy to increase skin penetration up to 14,000 times. In daily cosmetics, however, they disrupt the lipid barrier, widen microtears, and damage the microbiome.

For acne-prone skin, this is especially dangerous. These ingredients can trigger inflammation, weaken immunity, and foster biofilms—protective layers of C. acnes bacteria that shield themselves within a self-produced matrix. These biofilms protect pathogenic bacteria from the skin’s natural defenses, as well as from cosmetic actives or even medical treatments like benzoyl peroxide, antibiotics making acne significantly harder to manage and more likely to become chronic. Over time, this leads to chronic acne, oil rebound, and even post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Even sunscreen can be problematic when formulated with heavy occlusives and microplastics. Instead of “more is better,” sun protection should be breathable, balanced, and barrier-friendly to not clog your pores and improve your skin immune system.

Skincare should protect and strengthen—not overwhelm—the skin. Respecting the skin’s biology is key to truly solving acne and sensitivity.

Many acne products promise “instant results” with benzoyl peroxide, high-dose acids, or alcohol-based toners. These can reduce surface symptoms fast—but at a price.

Studies show that aggressive ingredients can lead to:

• Microbiome disruption
• Skin barrier damage, scars
• Increased sensitivity
• And, long-term, even post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH)

What’s worse? The skin often rebounds—producing even more oil or inflammation.

Also occlusive silicones, comedogenic esters, or unbalanced emulsifiers can trap sebum and bacteria. Even some “natural” ingredients (like coconut oil) can be too comedogenic for acne-prone skin.

Ceramides are essential lipids (fats) naturally found in your skin. They act like the "mortar" between your skin cells, holding everything together to form a strong, healthy barrier. When your skin has enough ceramides, it stays hydrated, resilient, and less reactive. If you have acne-prone skin, your barrier is often damaged or imbalanced—either from inflammation, harsh treatments, or genetic sensitivity. That’s where ceramide boosters come in.

Using only ceramides isn’t enough. They need to be in balance with other skin lipids—cholesterol and fatty acids—and must come with barrier-friendly actives to truly repair and protect.

Acne is not just about surface oil and clogged pores. An imbalance in sebum composition, especially a drop in linoleic acid or rise in squalene peroxides, triggers hyperkeratinization and oxidative stress, initiating acne—even if oil production isn’t high.

In many persistent cases, Cutibacterium acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes) forms biofilms—structured bacterial colonies encased in a protective matrix. These biofilms make acne dramatically harder to treat, contributing to chronic inflammation and treatment resistance.

A mildly acidic pH (~4.5–5.5) is essential for disrupting biofilms. LABRAINS Skin perfect Peeling Mask with AHA and  Skin intense peeling mask with PHA are specially designed to:

• Destabilize biofilm structure, exposing bacteria to treatment
• Stimulate cell turnover, helping skin naturally shed biofilm-containing cells
• Restore optimal pH, supporting microbiome balance and skin renewal

Unlike harsh acid-based peels, the LABRAINS formula uses controlled natural acids and enzymatic activity—gentle enough for sensitive, acne-prone skin.

Biofilm-prone skin is also usually suffering from a weakened lipid barrier. This deficiency allows inflammation to flourish and skin to overreact to actives. Strengthening this barrier—especially by replenishing ceramides—helps to:

• Naturally shed biofilms through improved desquamation
• Reduce bacterial adhesion to healthy skin
• Calm inflammation and increase tolerance to exfoliants and treatment products
• To stay hydrated.

Here’s what to watch out for in many acne skincare formulations:

• Microplastic-like occlusives (e.g., PEGs, acrylates, dimethicone): While they may improve texture and spreadability, these ingredients form non-breathable films that can trap unbalanced lipids, disrupt the microbiome, and interfere with the skin’s natural repair processes.
• Incomplete ceramide systems: Many products include only one or two ceramide types and lack ceramide boosters. In contrast, healthy skin requires a complex mix of ceramides to maintain a resilient barrier.
• Imbalanced oils: When oils or free fatty acids are used in incorrect ratios—especially under occlusion—they can overwhelm the skin and contribute to clogged pores and inflammation.
• Barrier-disrupting solvents and preservatives such as glycols and alcohols may compromise microbiome integrity and hydration, especially in sensitive or acne-prone skin.

In response, LABRAINS is actively expanding its skincare line. We are currently developing new moisturizers specifically for acne-prone skin, enriched with both ceramides and ceramide boosters. Our mission is to offer broader, smarter support for sensitive and acne-prone skin—helping more people restore balance, rebuild their skin barrier, and confidently prevent future breakouts. Coming soon, stay tuned!