Understanding Acne: Pt1

The Truth Behind Acne. What It Is and Where Does It Come From.

By Dr. oec. Liga Brunina | Biochemist, Clean Beauty Formulator, Founder of LABRAINS

Acne is one of the most misunderstood skin conditions. Often dismissed as a teenage nuisance or targeted with aggressive quick-fix products, acne is in fact a complex inflammatory disorder involving the immune system, hormones, microbiome, environmental triggers, and skin barrier function.

At LABRAINS, we believe in addressing acne at its root, without disrupting the skin’s long-term health. Here’s everything you need to know about acne, based on science, skin biology, and sustainable skincare practices.

Please remember: if you have very severe acne with deep inflammation, it’s important to consult a dermatologist. Cosmetics are not medicine, they are part of daily skincare that helps strengthen your skin, improve its tolerance to triggers, and reduce the visible impact of genetic predispositions.

It might seem easy to treat acne quickly using aggressive medical ingredients, but many of these, such as salicylic acid combined with alcohol or benzoyl peroxide, can damage your skin barrier. While they may reduce acne in the short term, they often lead to relapses, scarring, and even long-term issues like post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation years later, which can be even harder to treat.

And why is that important? Because not all bacteria cause acne. When we use aggressive ingredients like alcohol-based salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide, we often destroy both harmful and beneficial bacteria, disrupting the skin’s first protective barrier, the microbiome.

For example, Cutibacterium acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes) is commonly associated with acne, but only certain strains are inflammatory. Others are actually part of a healthy skin microbiome and play a protective role. When the microbiome is unbalanced, the skin becomes more sensitive, reactive, and prone to recurring breakouts, even if the surface looks “clean”.

That’s why LABRAINS’ approach focuses on building long-term skin health, not just fighting symptoms.

The Acne-Pigmentation Connection: What You Do Today Matters Tomorrow

It’s a hidden truth: many ingredients that reduce acne quickly can cause hyperpigmentation months or years later, especially in skin types with higher melanin activity.

Examples:

Steroids, benzoyl peroxide, and retinoids can create pigment instability.
Picking pimples or exposing healing skin to the sun can trigger excess melanin production.

LABRAINS avoids pigmentation-triggering actives and instead uses Northern plant antioxidants and biotechnological stem cell extracts that help reduce inflammation without overstimulating the skin’s melanin system.

Root Causes of Acne: It’s Not Just One Thing

Acne begins when pores become clogged by dead skin cells, excess sebum, or external pollutants. But that’s only the surface.

Underneath, there’s a cascade of biochemical events:

C. acnes bacteria triggers inflammation inside the follicle.
The immune system releases pro-inflammatory messengers.
Hormonal fluctuations (especially androgens) increase oil production.
Stress, dehydrated skin, sugar, dairy, occlusive cosmetics and even over-cleansing can worsen the situation. (Using harsh cleansers strips natural lipids, disrupting the barrier and microbiome. The skin often overcompensates by producing more oil, leading to further breakouts.)
Inappropriate cosmetics or risky ingredient combinations in acne treatments, such as pairing ceramides with occlusive agents or microplastic-like compounds (e.g., PEGs, Acrylates, Dimethicone), can be counterproductive. These combinations may block pores, interfere with skin renewal, or compromise microbiome balance, especially in acne-prone skin.

Result? Papules, pustules, cysts, and skin in distress.

Remember this: some people believe lactose-free milk or small amounts of milk in coffee are acceptable for acne-prone skin. However, this may not be the case. If you are sensitive to milk-derived growth proteins, you should avoid all dairy products, especially during active phases of acne.

Also, keep in mind that skim milk has been more closely linked to acne than whole milk. This is likely due to bioactive hormones and whey proteins that stimulate IGF-1, a growth factor associated with increased sebum production and hyperkeratinization.

But don’t worry. Once you learn how to manage your triggers and identify your individual thresholds, it becomes much easier to keep your skin under control.

Acne isn’t Just a Teenage Problem

While 85% of teenagers experience acne, up to 50% of adult women also suffer from adult-onset acne, often linked to hormonal fluctuations, stress, or cosmetic use.

Today, more and more evidence shows that acne is strongly linked to modern lifestyles. Populations living traditional lifestyles (such as some Indigenous groups) report very low to no acne, supporting the theory that diet, environmental pollutants, blue light radiation, AC, dust and urban stress play a key role.

A depleted or insufficient microbial biodiversity, common in urban living, leads to reduced diversity of microorganisms on the skin, making it more sensitive and prone to microbiome imbalance.

Genetics also play a role.

However, a growing body of scientific research shows that even genes contributing to acne can be modulated by lifestyle choices.

Yes, in severe cases, this journey may take up to two years, and it requires patience and a self-loving attitude.

So please, don’t be harsh on your skin. If you’ve lacked proper hydration, regular movement (to stimulate sweat glands), detox practices, or if your gut is inflamed from poor nutrition or partying, acne may simply be a warning sign of internal imbalance, not a flaw. In fact, it may be your body’s way of preventing more serious conditions from developing later on.

curly woman applying labrains cream to her face with the product in hand

Interestingly, those with a genetic tendency toward acne often show slower skin aging (people with acne tend to have faster cell turnover, but their corneocytes (outer skin cells) are less likely to shed properly, causing clogged pores (microcomedones)), even into their 40-50s – also their skin retains the extra capacity to produce protective sebum.

Acne might just be your skin’s way of saying: “I’m built to age slower.”

Main Types of Acne and Their Primary Causes

Acne can be classified into six main types, each with distinct features and underlying causes

1. Comedonal Acne (Non-inflammatory)

Appearance: Blackheads (open comedones) and whiteheads (closed comedones)

Main causes:

Hyperkeratinization: Dead skin cells don’t shed properly, clogging pores
Excess sebum: Traps dead cells inside follicles
Poor exfoliation or use of comedogenic cosmetics

What to Be Cautious About:

Over-cleansing strips natural lipids → triggers rebound oiliness
Using comedogenic “natural” oils (like coconut or cocoa butter)
Skipping moisturizer just because skin looks oily
Exfoliating during inflamed phases can cause long-term barrier damage

Key Insight:

Comedonal acne is often the first visible sign of barrier and renewal imbalance.
Don’t wait for inflammation – support ceramide synthesis, gentle exfoliation, and microbiome balanceearly.

2. Papular Acne (Mild Inflammatory)

Appearance: Small, red, inflamed bumps (papules) without pus

Main causes:

Blocked pores with inflammation
Immune system reaction to C. acnes bacteria in the follicle
Hormonal triggers that increase oil production

What to Be Cautious About:

Scrubbing inflamed skin – this spreads bacteria and worsens micro-tears
Drying alcohol-based products or spot treatments
Skipping hydration – even oily skin needs ceramide support during inflammation
Switching products too frequently – destabilizes healing progress

Key Insight:

Papular acne is a signal of immune activation. Calm the skin, support the barrier, and don’t exfoliate blindly. Building up skin strength is more effective than chasing short-term drying.

3. Pustular Acne

Appearance: Red, inflamed lesions with a white or yellow center (pus)

Main causes:

Inflammation + immune response
Bacterial overgrowth (especially virulent strains of C. acnes)
Stress, poor diet, or hormonal fluctuations can worsen it

What to Be Cautious About:

Spot treatments with benzoyl peroxide – they may break the barrier, worsen PIH
Picking or squeezing – risk of scarring and deeper infection
Overusing acids or harsh cleansers – leads to rebound pustules

Key Insight:

Pustular acne is an immune and microbial dysregulation, not just “clogged pores.” You must work with your skinnot against it – by reducing triggers, respecting its microbiome, and prioritizing barrier-first care.

4. Nodular Acne

Appearance: Deep, painful, firm lumps under the skin

Main causes:

Severe inflammation deep in the skin layers
Often hormone-driven, particularly androgens
Genetic predisposition and chronic follicular blockage

What to Be Cautious About:

Relying solely on retinoids or drying agents – they thin the barrier and increase long-term sensitivity
Not moisturizing. Dehydrated skin overproduces sebum as compensation
Overloading active treatments without repair phase leads to chronic inflammation cycles

Key Insight:

Nodular acne is not superficial – it’s a sign of internal dysregulation (hormonal + genetic + inflammatory).
Treat it with deep respect, calming the skin and nourishing the lipid barrier to regain harmony.

5. Cystic Acne

Appearance: Soft, pus-filled lumps under the skin; can scar.

Main causes:

Excessive immune response
Hormonal imbalances (often during puberty, PCOS, or stress)
Often exacerbated by occlusive cosmetics, poor skincare, or high sugar/whey diets

What to Be Cautious About:

Excessive dryness caused by stripping ingredients (acids, alcohols, retinoids)
Unrealistic expectations for fast results – cystic acne takes time to resolve
Picking or squeezing cysts – leads to permanent textural damage

Key Insight:

You don’t fight cystic acne with aggression.
You calm it with strategy, restore your skin’s defensive intelligence, and let the barrier take the lead.

6. Acne Mechanica

Appearance: Acne in areas of friction or pressure (e.g., under mask, helmet, or tight clothing)

Main causes:

Mechanical friction and sweat
Trapped moisture and heat disrupt the skin barrier
Often seen in athletes or in humid environments (e.g., “maskne”)

What to Be Cautious About:

Over-washing or harsh exfoliation: may worsen barrier damage from friction
Occlusive ingredients under pressure: avoid silicones, PEGs, dimethicone during mask wear
Comedogenic sunscreens or makeup: switch to breathable, mineral-based formulas
Peeling masks: avoid if the area is raw, cracked, or freshly irritated

Key Insight:

Acne Mechanica is a mechanical and environmental condition, not a hormonal one.
Managing friction, fabric, and moisture, combined with microbiome support, leads to long-term stability.

Different Treatments – but the Key to Success Is Constancy and methodology

When looking at different types of acne and their root causes – especially when considering that many people have a combination of types – it becomes clear that not all acne is the same, nor should it be treated with the same routine.

Some cases require a phased approach:

an initial stage (to calm inflammation and/or to break biofilm),
an intermediate stage (to support healing), and
a reparative or supplementation stage (to restore and rebalance the skin).

That’s why it’s important to learn to understand your skin’s signals and needs. Living only on antibiotics, isotretinoin (Roaccutane), or topical retinoids may suppress symptoms – but they won’t help you discover why the acne is happening, or how to avoid it long-term.

Different acne types and phases (active vs. post-inflammatory) require different skincare approaches. And most importantly, it’s crucial to find the right routine, especially after completing medical treatment, to truly restore and strengthen your skin.

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