By Dr. oec. Liga Brunina | Biochemist, Clean Beauty Formulator, Founder of LABRAINS

Many people believe that oily or acne-prone skin doesn’t need hydration—but that’s a common misconception. In reality, oily skin is often dehydrated underneath. Here's why:

The Skin's Natural Response to Dehydration

When your skin loses too much water (a process called TEWL – transepidermal water loss), it senses this damage and tries to protect itself. If your skin barrier is weak, the sebaceous glands go into overdrive, producing excess sebum—but here’s the catch:

• This oil is often poor in quality, meaning it lacks the right balance of fatty acids
• It’s not enough to seal in moisture
• It mixes with dead skin cells and clogs pores
• It creates the perfect environment for acne-causing bacteria and inflammation

In short: Even if your skin looks shiny, it can still be thirsty and stressed underneath. Balancing water and oil—not stripping it—is the key to calming acne and strengthening your skin long-term.

This means you should not avoid non-comedogenic oil cleansers—even if you fear they might worsen your acne. In fact, that’s a common misconception.

It’s a common concern: individuals with acne-prone skin often avoid oil-based cleansers like LABRAINS Oil-to-Milk out of fear that “oil will clog pores” or “make acne worse.” However, when switching to microbiome-friendly, non-comedogenic oil cleansers or clean cosmetics vs synthetics, what some perceive as “worsening” acne is often transient purging—not a true breakout.

Purging is a temporary phase where your skin increases its rate of renewal. As cell turnover accelerates and deeper impurities are brought to the surface, existing microcomedones (invisible clogged pores) may become visible. This can look like a sudden flare—but it’s a sign that your skin is starting to regulate itself.

Many people panic during this stage. They abandon the new routine too early or overreact with harsh products. This triggers stress and elevated cortisol, a hormone known to:

• Stimulate oil production via sebaceous glands
• Disrupt skin barrier repair
• Prolong inflammation
• Alter microbiome balance

All of this creates a self-sabotaging cycle: initial purging → panic → cortisol spike → actual inflammatory breakout → frustration → damaged skin barrier.

Stress increases cortisol, which in turn stimulates sebaceous glands. Stress also lowers skin immunity and slows barrier recovery, making inflammation and acne worse.

💡 To Minimize Cortisol-Induced Acne

• Don’t overanalyze every new spot. Give your skin time.
• Get adequate sleep (cortisol levels drop during deep sleep).
• Practice skin mindfulness—gentle massage during cleansing reduces nervous tension.
• Limit stimulants like caffeine and high-GI snacks, which can amplify cortisol.
• Avoid switching products too often—consistency helps the skin self-regulate.

Follow these steps, review your progress every four weeks, and consult your skin-care professional if deeper treatment is required.

• Visible results ≠ internal healing — inflammation and biofilm may still be present beneath the surface.
• Consistency is more important than strength. Skin responds better to daily, microbiome-supportive care than to aggressive products.
• Long-term results (6–24 months) depend heavily on lifestyle (sleep, food, stress, climate, sun exposure) and not just products.

Acne isn’t a flaw—it’s your skin signaling imbalance. The solution isn’t to suppress it, but to listen, support, and guide it back to equilibrium. 

Acne-prone skin needs care—not conflict. A thoughtful routine like LABRAINS' helps calm inflammation, support the skin barrier, and prevent future breakouts. Choose gentle cleansing, microbiome-friendly hydration, and barrier-repairing actives. Don’t fear oils or purging—understand your skin’s process.

Results take time. Depending on acne type, improvements may take 4–12 weeks or longer. Be consistent. Be patient. And most importantly—track your progress like a scientist. Write down what you use and how your skin responds.

With LABRAINS, you’re not fighting your skin. You’re healing it—with clean science, real ingredients, and long-term results.

Still unsure? LABRAINS specialists are here to help. Ask us your questions—we believe skincare is not one-size-fits-all, but a journey you don’t have to take alone.